Termite Inspections
Termite Inspection Equipment
A thorough termite inspection requires the right tools. The following equipment is essential for conducting a proper inspection:
- Painter’s Poles – Two extendable poles: one that extends from 4 to 8 feet for first-story eaves, and another that extends from 8 to 16 feet for second-story eaves.
- Flashlight – A high-powered, rechargeable flashlight for inspecting attics, crawlspaces, dark-painted eaves, and hard-to-reach areas behind appliances.
- Ladder – A sturdy A-frame ladder that extends between 12 and 18 feet.
- Chalk – To mark termite-infested areas for reference.
- Phone with Camera – For documenting evidence of infestation.
- Clipboard & Graph Paper – To sketch the structure and note findings.
- Erasable Pens – Allows for easy corrections while documenting.
- Measuring Wheel – To accurately measure the structure you’re inspecting.
- Tools – To open crawl hatches, termite galleries, etc.
- Magnifying Glass – Helps with identifying insects up close.
- Mirror with Light – Useful for checking above ledges for termite droppings.
- Knee Pads – Protects knees when crawling through attics and crawlspaces.
Probing for Termites
Probing exterior wood members—such as fascia, rafter tails, and other exposed structural elements—is the most common method termite inspectors use to detect termite activity on a home’s exterior. Most inspectors carry two extendable poles: one about five feet long for first-story eaves and a ten-foot pole for upper stories. Some also attach a probing tip to the end of their pole.
The inspection process typically begins at one corner of the home, with the inspector systematically tapping each wood member around the perimeter. If the home has a second story, they complete the first-story inspection before switching to the longer pole to probe the upper level. This process can be particularly strenuous on homes with multiple exposed wood components in the eaves. While some homes have a simple fascia board running along the exterior, others feature a more complex arrangement, including blocking, rafter tails, starter boards, outriggers, fascia, and fascia trim. When probing second-story wood with the heavier, longer pole, inspectors often need to take occasional breaks.
Probing doesn’t require excessive force. If the wood is solid, nothing happens. If termites are present, even a light tap can cause the wood to crack. Occasionally, what appears to be intact wood will break apart, releasing thousands of termite droppings. (For a termite inspector, finding droppings in their hair at the end of the day is a sign of a successful inspection.)
There’s no need to probe wood that is visibly infected with fungus or already showing clear termite damage. Some inspectors who offer wood repair services claim they must determine the full extent of the damage, but that doesn’t mean they should leave your eaves in ruin.
In attics and garages, probing is rarely necessary. Instead, inspectors look for telltale signs like termite droppings to assess activity.
Inaccessible Areas
The primary reason fumigation is the California Structural Pest Control Board’s top recommendation is that much of a home’s framing is inaccessible. However, it’s not just walls that block access—many other factors can make a thorough inspection and treatment difficult or even impossible.
- Storage in garages and attics can obstruct key areas.
- Vegetation around the home may block the foundation and eaves.
- Sheds and outdoor storage placed against the home can limit inspection.
- Patio covers can make second-story eaves unreachable.
- Homes built on hills or with third stories may have eaves that are completely inaccessible.
- Slab foundations prevent inspection of the home’s plumbing.
- Ductwork in crawlspaces can block access to certain areas.
- Rooflines meeting rafters create tight, hard-to-reach spots where an inspector may only be able to shine a flashlight.
- Chimney framing may show signs of infestation, but treating it is often impossible.
- Attic insulation covers roughly 50% of rafters, while blown-in insulation hides even more.
- Wood flooring is concealed under furniture and carpets.
- Some homes have no exposed wood at all, with stucco-covered eaves and no attic access.
Plumbing
In most cases, plumbing isn’t part of a termite inspection—unless it’s for escrow. During escrow inspections, we check under every sink for leaks and wood rot, test for loose toilets, and conduct shower stall tests.
If the home has a crawlspace, it’s crucial to observe the soil conditions. If the ground is damp despite a lack of recent rain and no nearby planters, a plumbing leak is the likely culprit.
Even in a standard inspection, identifying excess moisture from plumbing issues is essential. Moisture is the driving force behind termite infestations and wood rot. Where there’s termites or fungus, there’s moisture. More often than not, tracing the problem leads back to a plumbing issue.
Left unchecked, a leak will eventually saturate the soil beneath a home, attracting subterranean termites. If framing is nearby, the added moisture can also fuel a drywood termite colony. Even the smallest leak can escalate into thousands of dollars in termite treatments and wood repairs—costs that homeowners insurance won’t cover.
Chimney Tubes
Ask any seasoned termite inspector which part of an attic they check first—if one exists—and they’ll likely say the framing around a chimney tube. Experience shows that nine out of ten chimney tubes have drywood termite activity, some of which is inaccessible for treatment. While an inspector’s goal is often to find an alternative to fumigation, an active infestation around a chimney tube presents a challenge. If visible termite droppings aren’t masked and appear to be coming from inaccessible wood members, fumigation is the only viable solution.
The framing around a chimney tube is particularly vulnerable to drywood termites for several reasons. The wood is typically unpainted, providing an easy entry point. Additionally, the heat from the chimney creates temperature fluctuations that can lead to condensation. While drywood termites don’t require much moisture, they thrive in wood that isn’t completely dry. The slight condensation produced when a fire burns can create just enough moisture for a colony to establish and persist.
Cricket Droppings
Cricket droppings are a litmus test for both the experience and honesty of a termite inspector. They often appear in concentrated piles, sharing the same size and consistency as termite droppings. However, unlike termite droppings, cricket droppings are black and can sometimes be found in areas with no nearby wood.
Drywood termite droppings, on the other hand, are made of wood, which means they take on the natural color of wood. Since wood is only black if it has been painted, and termites eat from the inside out—avoiding paint—their droppings will never be black.
Let’s be honest—termite inspectors get excited when they find a pile of termite droppings. But cricket droppings? They’re fool’s gold—completely worthless in the context of termites and termite treatments. Unfortunately, some inspectors won’t let a small detail like color get in the way of making a sale. And in all the termite training I’ve attended, cricket droppings have never even been mentioned.
If a termite inspector points to black droppings as evidence of an infestation requiring treatment, they’re either inexperienced or dishonest—either way, probably not someone you want to trust with your home.
Knee Pads
The only safe place to apply your weight in an attic is on a rafter—anywhere else, and you might find your foot poking through the ceiling into the room below. As an inspector, you’re lucky if you can stand up at all in an attic; most require crawling. And while Douglas fir is classified as a softwood, it certainly doesn’t feel soft on your knees.
This is why, if you’re having your home inspected for termites, you’ll likely see the inspector strapping on a pair of knee pads before entering the attic. In fact, if it were my home and an inspector didn’t wear knee pads, I’d question whether they completed a thorough inspection.
Roofs
Every termite report includes a disclaimer like this: “The exterior surface of the roof was not inspected.” That’s because there’s no way to assess a roof’s exterior without removing its overlay. Even roofers can’t determine the extent of rotted sheathing until they remove the top layers.
The underside of the roof sheathing can be inspected if it’s accessible from the attic. However, spot treatments in this area can be tricky since the wood is thin—drill too deep, and you’ll create a hole in the roof.
Roofing material also plays a role in termite treatment, particularly fumigation. Composition shingles and flat roofs pose no issues, but steel roofs can be problematic if they are installed on purlins instead of roof sheathing. Tile roofs, however, are the biggest concern.
Fumigators need to walk on the roof to install the tent, and fragile roofing materials increase the risk of damage. For cement and standard clay tile roofs, fumigators typically offer tile insurance, covering the cost of replacing any cracked tiles. Without insurance, the homeowner is responsible. However, most fumigators won’t insure double-stacked clay tile roofs. If you have one, it’s best to wait until you’re ready to replace your roof before scheduling a fumigation.
